Broad Peak is a prominent part of The Gasherbrum Massif which lies in Gilgit-Baltistan on the border of Pakistan and China. The twelfth highest mountain elevated at 8,051 meters is known as “Falchan Kangri” to native Balti people. The English name “Broad Peak” was first presented by the British explorer, Martin Conway in 1892 for its spacious breadth at the top as the peak itself has five summits: Broad Peak (8,051m), Rocky Summit (8,028m), Broad Peak Central (8,028m), Broad Peak North (7,940m) and Kharut Kangri (6,942m).
Dr. Karl Herrligkoffer was the first to attempt Broad Peak who failed due to storms and unbearable coldness in the year 1954. However, an Australian Expedition Team of Fritz Wintersteller, Marcus Schmuck, Kurt Diemberger, and Hermann Buhl reached the summit without supplemental oxygen and base camp support in 1957. Furthermore, this gigantic mountain’s one and a half kilometers summit was also conquered in winter by Maciej Berbeka, Adam Bielecki, Tomasz Kowalski, and Artur Malek on March 5, 2013, but unfortunately, Maciej Berbeka and Tomasz Kowalski did not return while descending back to camp 4 and were announced dead on March 8 of the same year by the expedition captain, Krzysztof Walicki.
The mountain offers some stunning views of The Baltoro Glacier and Mt.K2 which is just a few kilometers away. Broad Peak could be a demanding mountaineering experience for those who desire to know their utmost ability. Despite standing as the twelfth eight-thousander of the world, it is a highly challenging climb; it initiates with hopeless steepness and seems relentless till the end of the expedition. The geographical formation of the summit ridge has startled some of the best climbers of the world as the upper sections of the peak are perilous to ascend. Thus, it is not a convenient climb and requires an excellent level of psychological potency and physicality to stand glorious on its summit.
The best season to climb Broad Peak:
The most appropriate season to climb is summer. Most of the ascents have been accomplished in July and August as they are the warmest months of the year. The expedition to the summit of Broad Peak is more gratifying in these months than in winter.