Residing in the Mahalangur section of the Himalayas in the Nepal-China border just 8 kilometers towards the west of Mt. Everest, Mt Pumori is one of the most promising 7000er peaks to any aspiring Himalayan Alpinist. Named by George Mallory as 'the mountain daughter' derived from Sherpa language where 'pumo' means 'young girl' and Ri means 'mountain'. A perfect choice of mountain for those preparing for 8000ers, Mt Pumori demands a high level of physical endurance and mountaineering experience. Climbers prefer the South East route for the Pumori expedition. However, the risk of avalanche always prevails during the climb.
The first successful ascent to this stunning peak was made in 1962 by Gerhard Lesner from a German-Swiss expedition team. Since then, numerous summits have been made but the first winter ascent to Pumori was only made in 2017 by Ali Sadpara from Pakistan.
The Pumori expedition starts with a flight from Kathmandu to Lukla and then trekking through beautiful villages in Phakding, Namche Bazaar, Tengboche, Lobuche, and Gorakshep. The trek allows is to experience the rural and local lifestyle of Sherpas. We get to pass through picturesque villages with terraced farmlands, dense forests of Rhododendron and Pine slowly rising towards rocky landscapes with no vegetation. We finally reach the base camp where we prepare for the climb.
The climb to Mt. Pumori requires traversing many snow-covered ridges and climbing across numerous glaciers. At times, climbers need to climb over slopes rising about 40-60 degrees, which is very technical and requires proper mountaineering experience.
Due to the technicalities involved, several camps will be established before actually pushing for the Summit. The base camp is established at 5300m followed by Camp I at 5650 m. Then, ascending on 40-60 degrees slopes we reach Camp II at 6200 m. Further, walking on more ice and snow, we will rest at Camp III at 6500 m before heading to the Summit at 7,161m. Our highly experienced Sherpas will set up fixed ropes and routes to help you ascend and descend easily. Our food and accommodations are top-notch making every moment of your travel worth it.
The summit of Pumori showcases an amazing panoramic view of Mt Everest, Mt Lhotse, Mt Nuptse, Mt Cho Oyu, Mt Makalu, and many other snow-capped peaks. As we start early in the morning, we may be lucky enough to witness the glorious sunrise that lightens up the white snow into golden making the scene unreal.
The best season to go on an expedition to Mt. Pumori is Spring ( March-June) and Autumn (August-November)
Plan your Trip for our Pumori Expedition and check out the gears required.